Oppian Hill

Tucked away on the slope just west of the mighty Colosseum, you'll find a green oasis that feels worlds apart from the bustle of Rome’s urban heart. This hillside park, known as Oppian Hill, draws visitors in with its tranquil pathways, shaded benches, and sweeping views of the ancient amphitheater just across the street. But dig a little deeper, and you’ll uncover layers of Roman history resting below your feet—stories of emperors, architectural wonder, and the city’s ever-shifting landscape.

Layers of History: From Nero’s Golden House to Imperial Baths

Walking through the park, you may notice scattered ruins emerging from the grass and among the trees. These are the remnants of the Baths of Trajan, a grand bathing complex constructed in the early 2nd century AD. But what’s even more fascinating is what lies beneath: the vast, buried halls of Nero’s Domus Aurea, or the Golden House. After the emperor’s infamous reign, much of his extravagant villa was covered over, both literally and figuratively, by subsequent rulers looking to erase his legacy. The Baths of Trajan, for example, were built directly on top of Nero’s original foundations.

When the Colosseum was commissioned, it rose up from the drained basin of what was once Nero’s private lake—a symbol of the city’s move from imperial excess to public spectacle. Today, the layers of ruins tell the tale of Rome’s evolving identity, tucked away beneath the lawns and playgrounds of the modern park.

The Hidden Wonder Below the Grass

Beneath the park’s surface lies an enormous section of Nero’s villa, its once-splendid halls painted with gold and adorned with intricate frescoes. In the late 20th century, after decades of neglect, a major restoration effort was launched. Skilled conservators painstakingly stabilized the site, patched up delicate walls, and installed lighting to reveal the grandeur of the ancient rooms. For a few brief years, Rome welcomed the public into this underground marvel—an opportunity to wander through the same spaces as emperors and artists of old. Sadly, the fragile ruins soon began leaking once again, forcing another closure to protect the precious interiors.

Though you can no longer descend into the Domus Aurea’s shadowy corridors without special permission, Oppian Hill remains a unique vantage point for anyone eager to explore Rome’s deep and layered past. Above ground, the park offers a peaceful retreat with a front-row seat to some of the city’s most thrilling chapters—just waiting to be discovered beneath your footsteps.

Source - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oppian_Hill